So you’ve read about fabric choice at our Art of Fabrication article. You are aware of the details that go into a shirt, from plackets, to pleats and different cuff options. And you are aware of the different grades of cotton and what a 100-2 ply means. But what about game day. Does your shirt taper around your torso well enough to strut it with confidence. Here are essential considerations to watch out for when trying on your shirt for fit:
1. Collar – The Collar should fit around your neck without constricting it. Ideally, you want your collar to be as close to your neck as possible, without making it uncomfortable. The litmus test is to be able to slide two fingers into your shirt collar without it cutting against your neck. As mentioned in our article dressing up based on your body type, the goal is to balance your collar widths with your facial structure / body type. Pointed collars will suit a round face, whereas spread collars are more appropriate for an angular / narrow face. Tall Spread collars suit long necks whereas short spread collars suit shorter necks.
2. Shoulders – Shoulder seams should end at your shoulder bone i.e the farthest point away from your chest. Your armholes should be comfortably fitted, so that your range of motion does not feel restricted. And they should definitely not cut into your underarm! Be careful to avoid excessive fabric and space. If, when raising your arms with your shirt tucked in, is removed from its place, you know that the shirt needs to be more tapered!
3. Torso – The Torso should be slim enough so that your shirt has about 3-4 inches of leeway when pulled away from your chest. The shirt should definitely allow ease of motion. Skin tight shirts are usually not preferable, unless your Jean-Claude Van Damme. Then you can just wear Spandex! SWEEEEET!
4. Sleeves – Your sleeve cuffs should end where your wrist meets your hand, and ideally should be a ¼ to ½ longer than your suit jacket sleeve, so as to expose some cuff! Bending your arm should not make your cuff move up your wrist by more than an inch.
And that’s a wrap! As always, comments and suggestions are welcome!
Categories: Dress Shirts