There comes a stage in every man’s life when he decides to embrace the bespoke suit: The concept is genius, the execution – often delightful and tasteful all at once, the purchasing process – smooth – except when it comes down to the little details. And we all know that attention to detail is the hallmark of all creative masterpieces. So while he is focusing on the fit and the fabrics, make sure that you both pay attention to these larger and seemingly ‘trivial’ features of the suit that will make all the difference between a good piece and a great one:
As a general rule, the fit starts with the shoulders. If the fit around the shoulders is snug, that is a good indication of a suit that should fit well (stop paying attention to the pseudo-tache!)
Regarding sleeve length, you want to wear a suit where the length of the jacket sleeve is slightly shorter than your shirt sleeve length, so as to allow you to show your cuffs / cufflinks, or just in general, even if it’s a regular shirt, part of your shirt cuffs.
When trying on trousers, squat down. Trousers should only feel tight when fully stretched. As a rule of thumb, you can test the length of the trousers by making sure that the hem of the trousers rests directly above the heels of your shoes. Plus, you get to look like one of these guys! Sweet!
Make sure the lining of the fabric for the jacket and trousers is of quality material. Lining helps provide a better fit and can add some flair to the jacket!
With a hand made suit, the customer can choose the lapels and overall cut that he wishes. In the 80’s looser fits (with larger lapels) were common, whereas today, slim fitted suits (with narrower lapels) are the style of choice. Up to you. Embrace your inner Charles Barkley, or Ricky Martin!!!!
Stitching should be done with the best quality thread. A handmade suit can be discerned by visible stitches at the edge of the lapels.
So there you have it! I will be producing more content with other features to look out for! As always, comments / suggestions are welcome!
Check out some of our favorite ties at The Dark Knot below!